This is the afternoon of August 9, and we are in North Sidney, NS waiting for a ferry to take us to Newfoundland tomorrow. Little did we dream 45 years ago when we walked down the aisle together that we would celebrate 45 years of marriage, and we would celebrate all those years close to the end of the world.

And, whoohoo, did we celebrate! We went out for breakfast to the only restaurant open for breakfast in Louisbourg, NS. Eggs over easy, white bread, and fried potatoes right out of the freezer package. Oh for a green chili, cheese omelet. What can one expect when at the end of the world?

Since we only had 30-some miles to travel today and were not suppose to arrive at our next campground before noon, we had the morning free. We visited a lighthouse across the bay from Louisbourg. It was the fourth lighthouse on this particular point of land. The original lighthouse was built by the French in the 1700’s, was the second oldest lighthouse in North America, and the oldest lighthouse built with flame retardant materials. There were some other firsts and seconds about it but they were all too complicating and conflicting to keep straight. Anaway, Shannon loves lighthouses; so my bride was happy. The site provided a great view of the Louisbourg harbor, the fortress, and the island battery sites where the French tried to defend the harbor from the invading English. I was amazed, perhaps because I hear very little, by the sound of the pounding waves on the rocks. It was all very romantic.

There was a hiking trail along the shore to the coves where the English landed during the siege of 1745 to thwart the batteries built by the French to protect the harbor. Along the trail we were able to experience more of the coastline, the stunted and misshapen spruce-fir forests with blueberries, and the pounding waves. At one point we found a beautiful inukshuk, and couldn’t resist pictures. The lighthouse was definitely an important part of the wedding anniversary celebration.

Yesterday the better part of the day was spent exploring the Louisbourg Fortress. It has been restored by Parks Canada, and it is staffed by men and women in period costumes. The fortress was established by the French to protect the fishing industry on the Great Banks. Since the country of France was Roman Catholic and the church had decreed about 150 days a year when meat could not be eaten, the cod fishing industry was critical. The French and English traded this part of Canada a number of times. The English laid siege to the fortress in 1745 and 1758. Both times the French were defeated and the fortress destroyed. The siege of 1758 was during the French and Indian War or the Seven Years War with the French defeat leading to the English taking over Canada permanently.  A fortress civilians also lived while a fort was strictly military. And so we saw examples of civilian life as we toured the fortress.

On Thursday we traveled from Halifax area to Louisbourg. This was a trip that took us further east almost to the end of Nova Scotia and to the edge of the world. The trip was long; the trip had some of the worse roads we had yet experienced; and the trip produced a more than fair share of short tempers. Ah, ain’t this caravanning grand?

On Wednesday we spent the day at the Halifax Harbor. The morning started with a tour of the marine museum. The interesting display for me was a display showing perspectives of the War of 1812 from the 4 protagonists: Canadians, United States, English, and the Native people. I remembered very little about the War of 1812, except for a song about the battle of New Orleans (does that count as a history lesson?), Francis Scott Key (another song), and the burning of our capitol. So, the exhibit was fascinating and beneficial to my interest in history. Oh, the take home message was that the Native Peoples were the real losers in the War of 1812. Why am I not surprised?

Anaway, we had another bland meal of fish on the harbor, although the stout was good, and then we went sailing around the harbor. We finished the day with a tour of the Alexander Keith Brewery, Nova Scotia’s beer. The tour was led by over-the-top actors in period costumes (seems to be a reoccurring presentation technique), who really did entertain us with song and funny story while telling us about Keith and how beer is made. Of course they served us samples and entertained us more with song and dance and funny story. This was the most entertaining brewery tour we have every experienced. Worth the trip to Halifax.

Halifax is in our rearview mirrors. Onward to Newfoundland tomorrow. Again, I think of our wedding day 45 years ago and look out my motor home window and am amazed at how things have changed over the years. Our travels here are even more amazing when I think of the way Shannon and I had to leave Telluride after our wedding was over. We’ve come a long ways…